7 August-20 August
(to add insult to injury of my difficult time in New Zealand- I lost the use of 2 of the most important pieces of equipment I brought with me and my lifelines! My Powerbook G4 laptop CRASHED, and then I accidentally washed my Ipod shuffle. The headphones survived, but the Ipod never came back :( WHAT does the Southern Hemisphere have against Apple products? I always have some disaster there with my Apple products!)
Be diplomatic…be diplomatic…be fair… don’t say hate…say that I prefer Australia to New Zealand...
There’s a part of my brain that is perhaps larger than the other sections.It is constantly buzzing- it wakes me up as soon as I lay down to sleep to check just one more thing on the internet, it drives me when the thrill of going to a new place enters into the other parts of my brain….and it is entitled “Planning”, being a woman, a photographer, a student for 10 years, and an artist- I think I have planning down to a science. If one thing doesn’t work out- my brain instantly defaults to another solution, another answer, there’s always another way! And for the overactive, a.d.d. mind of mine- it is essential that I keep myself occupied with several things at once so that I don’t implode. Planning is twofold, really:
1) It allows me to not implode
2) It alleviates the wanderlust overthinker that I am…
Ahhh planning....how I didn't realise what a serious relationship I have with you! It is something that I enjoy- it helps me look thoughtfully towards the future, it is an essential part of being my own business- and a freelance photographer, and for someone who travels it is also an unquestionable necessity of my life… as I get older, I have learned to trust my intuition more and more- go with my gut instincts more often instead of less often so that when something turns out the way I felt that it would- I won't have to kick myself for not having listened to myself in the first place! Carpe Diem, right? Seize the day all the while making sound decisions of course ;)
Ok, decision made! I would start trusting myself and making decisions that I feel are strongly influenced by my intuition.. now having said all of that- I don’t know exactly what happened to me when I decided to hop over to New Zealand. I had spoken with enough people who had: been there, lived there, were born there and then moved to Australia, or just visited extensively… as I often do when I am trying to educate myself about something- I poll everyone, I ask a lot of questions, I am used to researching… but this time I was completely taken astray… I did not research and so the cardinal sin in my book was committed- I wasted almost 2 weeks of my time in a country that I did not even know was 2 islands separated by water- and the chaos ensues on my journey into Middle Earth.
I should have known. From the first moment in the Sydney airport when I was patiently waiting my turn in line, I should have known. I should have stayed in Australia. It was early morning for me- and I didn’t sleep much the night before. There are not many as many flights between Australia and New Zealand as one would think- and most especially from Sydney to Christchurch which actually flies quite often- I should have trusted my instincts, and yet, for some reason, the artist, the wanderlust, the stubborn Taurus moon side of me refused to give in. I got to the counter of Emirates airlines in Sydney, Australia, bleary eyed and exhausted, but ready for a new adventure—the man at the window looked at my creased black and white printout of my itinerary, looked at my passport, and gave me a bit of a frown.
Him:“When are you returning to Australia, ma’am?”
Me: “I don’t know, I only bought a one-way ticket.”
Him: “Oh, you cannot leave the country. New Zealand will not allow you in unless you have a return ticket.”
Me: (slightly thunderstruck) um, what? I cannot leave the country?!
Him: No, you must purchase a return ticket in order to enter the country.
Me: So, can I do that now?
Him: Yes, you can do it at any window, or you may purchase it online- but you will need to print out a confirmation number so that you have something to show New Zealand customs.
Me: (to myself, you have GOT to be kidding me.) Ok, thanks for telling me.
To myself: DAMN IT! Whaaat the hell ! I had so much fun in Sydney- maybe I can call my new friend Amy who said she didn’t want me to leave? Could I? I have her phone number in my moleskin journal… but.. f*ck its so early- I don’t know if she is up for work yet…. On the other hand….I want to go to New Zealand! What a crime to be so close and not see it, and I need some more diverse shots- I really want to see the land and the sheep, and learn about the country. Alright- let me go see how much another one way ticket will be….
I arrive at one of the counters of the mere 3 airlines that fly to New Zealand with extremely limited flying times/availability. Not surprisingly, Air New Zealand is the counter I find myself at and greeted by an extremely friendly lady told me a one way ticket will be $400… is she serious? Do I perhaps have the look of someone with an indisposable income? Ok, my option now was to go back and talk to Emirates, but they told me it was about the same cost- maybe Qantas could save the day (Qantas is one of the best airlines around, I flew with them about 6 times now and have been exceptionally pleased each time) She was much more helpful:“if you cannot make it today, you can extend your ticket for another date in the future if you wish.” That was nice to know that I had options,so I ran to the free internet kiosk provided by Optus mobile. I jumped online and looked frantically at lastminute.com.au and Qantas.com- lastminute.com had a return flight for about $200! Success! I was going to New Zealand- the government would NOT stand in my way. (all those with authority issues, say I!) I !!!!!
I quickly confirmed my purchase- and then realised that my bank account would be overdrawn if a check I wrote would clear at the same time- I worked that out- and then
ran over to the ticketing to get the bag tags- oh. They needed the printout of my ticket- damn! I went to not 1, not 2, but 3 different Qantas counters in order to get my printed itinerary fit for the New Zealand government and customs people. I barely made it through- but I did it! I was on my way to Middle Earth- and nobody- especially not the government would stop me! I sort of wish I had just rolled over, and given up, I wish I could have used my intuition at those early hours to peer into my future of frustration, wasted time and money, and confiscation of my recent purchase in Australia.. that, I am still sore about- and will complain about in depth in one moment. ☺
So, I find myself on this airline I have never flown before. Emirates made me feel like a STAR. High class accommodations even for those of us in coach- big, comfortable, beige leather seats, a TV for each seat, they served us brunch though it was only a 3 hour flight from Sydney to Christchurch; so in I settled into my roomy, comfortable seat with my complimentary headphones and crammed in the new Star Trek movie into the flight. New Zealand! Middle Earth from the plane was stunning- almost beyond words- the photos that I snapped with my little point and shoot camera were out of this world. The snow capped mountains were literally breathtaking. I felt hopeful- and for being such a city girl- it always interests me that I have a strong connection to being in nature (mainly due to the fact that I was born in the natural splendor of the Pacific Northwest Seattle)- when I don’t enjoy nor do any nature type activities like hiking, camping, swimming, or other selected water sports- for me- its mainly just BEING in nature and exploring on foot (reasonably so that my bad ankle doesn’t worsen) and shooting.I like to be on my own schedule and timing without any tourguides influencing my experience or telling me what to feel at what time.
We landed in Christchurch and I had to go through the exhaustive customs and security checks—did I have any fresh fruit, nuts? Have I been on a farm recently? Was there dirt on my shoes from being in the outback of Austalia? Yea, there actually was dirt, and when I was in Mudgee with Amanda we got clear quartz crystals straight out of the Earth. DAMN IT. Remain calm, and claim or throw away. Little did I know that my honesty was to work against me in just a few moments. A friendly woman with plastic gloves on greeted me and asked if I had any food. Ever the honest tell-tale heart with a near inability to lie, I cheerfully say, “yes! I have saffron and honey." Her heart skips a beat. “HONEY?” Uh, (was that the wrong answer? I was just being honest) and I didn’t want to endure the wrath of the “Claim it or INSTANT $200 fine”. I showed her my honey naively thinking that since it was from Australia, it would be allowed in- its not as if I have hidden explosives or an American disease I decided to bring over to ruin the delicate ecosystem of New Zealand. WRONG ANSWER. Honey is the first and foremost thing that they will not allow in the country. Blast it all ! She truly does apologise and says I cannot take the honey in- and I am instantly livid. I paid $7 for honey that I only tasted with a stick, and now they are taking it! WHY didn’t I just leave it in Australia with my new friends? Why didn’t I lie? Do they have honey detectors??? Would I have been imprisoned for bringing honey into the country? SIGH. I complained a bit, and she apologised again while she took my boots and clear quartz to be inspected for the dirt they carried. The dirt was FIIIIIIIIINE. But, I still mourn the loss of my honey- I may even write a letter to New Zealand just to make myself feel better- one thing my mum instilled in me was to never waste- that’s one of the cardinal sins in my book- and while I would like to think they BURN it to destroy it, I was HOPING that somewhere in a customs back room, they were having a honey confiscation party with my beloved natural,only touched once honey from Mudgee.
Still fussed about the ordeal that it was to get through security and customs, I remained eager to see the lansdscape of New Zealand from the worm’s eye view- I arrived at the airport and found… silence. Living in New York City affords you a very interesting characteristic- you tune out noise, but you still have a need to hear it. Sirens blaring, alarms going off, traffic, honking, yelling, music, loud trucks hitting bumps in the road, the occasional dog bark, screeching of trains, stopping of local buses, and sometimes your neighbours chatting as though they were inside your own apartment. Now that all of those sounds were no longer part of my regular day- I adopted the new sounds of Melbourne since I had stayed there the longest amount of time- the sound that chirps when its time to cross the street, the trams stopping and going, and the sound of the tram doors opening, a hush of traffic, people talking… on a smaller scale, Melbourne was still a major metropolitan city complete with the sounds of a hustling and bustling bonafide city.
Admittedly, the silence is slightly unnerving to me- it means in a way that not much is happening- and with my overactive mind- I get bored EXTREMELY easily. I always say that I need to be overstimulated all the time or I die. It’s sort of true. New Zealand was going to be… a challenge. But, I was ready. I went off to the bus, and found my way around fairly easily. What was I doing exactly? Oh yes, shooting! Ok, well, let me begin my research.
I found myself in the calm and hippie-like spirit of Christchurch. I had no idea that there were so many barefoot, dreadlocked people in New Zealand- where was my research knowledge? Why had I completely dropped the ball with this trip? I suppose the “no worries” lifestyle seeped into my veins and into the “planning” part of my brain. My trip back to Australia was already planned down to the last day I would be there and head back to the USA, however, the momentary blip for visiting and shooting in New Zealand continued on… and I struggled the entire 2 weeks I was there. I ended each day wondering “what did I accomplish today? NOTHING!!” “what did I shoot today? Not much?!”
I continued on- ever determined to not give up… transportation then became an issue to add to my increasing anxiety of wasting time and lack of accomplishment.The only way I could get around was by bus which ran on extremely limited services due to the winter time. Where was my 24 hour convenience of NYC? I am not an outdoor sports activity type of person… I don’t camp, I don’t fish, I don’t hike… in order to see more landscape, it would have behooved me to drive around...yet…my brain would literally not allow for me to drive on the left side of the road despite becoming accustomed to it a bit more, The Lord of the Rings tour was cheesy and undoubtedly a tourist trap, what else could I shoot? I was told that I MUST go to Milford Sound in the Fiordland National Park, its one of the rare untouched natural parks/habitats left on the planet… that should be photo worthy right? That was my new goal.. to get to Milford Sound if I did nothing else in New Zealand… now… I can just take a bus and be there in a few hours, right? WRONG!!! From one of the the furthest city South- Queenstown, it still took 10 hours of traveling total to get to the Sound! Now, where am I?! 3-5 hours away from Queenstown by bus... argh!
I eventually made it- and because I was determined to make SOMETHING of my time- I ended up frantically checking into backpacker’s hostels in Queenstown a few times, all the while attempting to find anything nearby that I could shoot to make my trip feel worthy. I even had one of their world famous burgers at
Fergburger- (admittedly a clever and delicious little hamburger joint in Queenstown) I didn’t however even get ONE photo of a sheep because the majority of my time was spent on buses traveling between cities.. I didn’t have a chance to eat lamb ( I know, when in Rome, but I didn’t have enough time!) I eventually made it to Doubtful Sound- it was an all day affair with more traveling than actual exploration of the area- and I am still hoping it was worth it- we did have a few strikes of luck in that on my tour we saw dolphins,penguins, and seals which are not always present for the tours.
The tour… was definitely worth it- worth the entire trip to New Zealand? I cannot tell a lie and say that it was… but, I have to say, that I always tell myself “I love being uncomfortable” and not in the sense of enjoying the feeling, but because it makes me step outside myself, to learn and grow. I struggled from the next to nothing activities available in Christchurch to the incredible distance between cities on even one of the islands.I made my way through Queenstown, Wanaka (where they apparently have a movie theatre with couches instead of seats and at intermission they serve you freshly baked cookies!), Manapouri, back to Christchurch and then flew to Auckland to get back to Australia.
It was not necessarily all in vain… the people, were absolutely the friendliest in the world- and I was extremely surprised, to this day cannot believe that they hitchhike as one of their main and accepted forms of transportation! I must have asked about 20 different people if they hitch, and if its safe… because in America, you hitch hike and you die! You end up on the evening news as missing or dead! It made me stop to think that I was behaving as though I was raised in a country of paranoid thieves and killers! (was that true? If even partially true? That America makes me not trust people? I can wax philosophic on that easily.. but I will end this extremely long entry soon) ☺
The sting of my confiscated honey was a hard one to bury throughout my time in New Zealand (and apparently up until today), the incredible expense I endured to get around to places without knowing where I was, and not truly accomplishing as much shooting as I would have liked- I basically wasted 2 weeks of time, only accomplishing shooting some absolutely majestic snow on mountains and traveling to Doubtful Sound (not a very encouraging name of a destination, eh?) but one of the most breathtaking- honestly- one of the few untouched places left in the world- it was magnificent, and I can’t say it was worth all the time, effort, and struggle, but perhaps if my photos sell as stock, I will change my mind. Despite the struggle, not realising I would have to FLY to Auckland- and freaking out every single day about how I was to get from the furthest Southern point on the South Island to Auckland in time to make it back to Melbourne- I found some outstanding new friends in New Zealand whose warmth and hospitality still rings in my memory every time I think about it. So, I suppose, that though I was given exactly what I wanted- to learn, grow, and be uncomfortable- I learned the geography of New Zealand, I learned that in order to visit- I might need to rob a bank to survive, and that there’s water separating the 2 islands… I can’t say that I am fondly looking back on my time there- but- perhaps a picture is worth 1,000 words afterall.. I’ll let you be the judge..but, I still want my honey back.

Goodbye to my beloved Australia- I can see the shape of the country from this airplane shot ;)

The view from the plane- still stuns me!

Purple :)

Pink fleurs

Gorgeous! Abundant plant life and flowers flourishing in the middle of the Winter, even!

Centre of Christchurch

Cool art museum in Christchurch

This helps for those of us that fail at history like I do, interesting how much the Maori culture is still relevant in the culture of New Zealand. I was told they even teach the Maori language in schools, still !

It turns out.. that I like old cars :)

This made me think it was part of a cottage from a fairytale :)

Native statue

I love the architecture of NZ, its completely different from Australia- and well here's some more English influence- I love the red telephone booths!!!

Not a sign you see everyday ;)

Hahahaha, I have no idea what these were there for- but some robots/transformers made out of cardboard boxes were randomly on a main street in Christchurch.

Tower in Lyttleton

Lyttleton

Forgive the dorky artist I am, I thought this was a cool image of raindrops on a clothes drying rack ;)

I like random things like this ;) In the middle of nature, too

Lake Tekapo
Doubtful Sound

A rarity- we got to see the seals :) Reminds me of Pier 39 in SF, albeit with a different backdrop ;)

Gorgeous close up of rock

Native bird (forgot its name) was happily eating banana chips, haha! :)

More of Doubtful Sound- untouched

Goodbye Doubtful Sound
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